The purpose of this Web page is to provide guidance and information concerning proper waste management practices for household products that contain hazardous chemicals.

This page consists of the following six sections:

Section 1 - provides an overview of potential problems created by improper disposal and introduces proper management and disposal techniques.

Section 2 - shows how to be a wise consumer by decreasing the amount of household hazardous waste products purchased.

Section 3 - shows how to reduce the use of household hazardous products by relying on alternative nonhazardous product substitutes. This section also outlines proper handling and disposal methods.

Section 4 -- is a quick and easy reference guide for a variety of household hazardous products, including proper disposal and less toxic alternatives.

Section 5 -- consists of suggested safety guidelines and procedures for purchasing, using, storing and disposing of household products containing hazardous chemicals.

Section 6 - offers suggestions for public education programs about household hazardous waste management.

Many household products contain chemicals that when discarded contribute to the contamination of natural resources including water supplies. It has been estimated that in an average city of 100,000 residents, 3.75 tons of toilet bowl cleaner, 13.75 tons of liquid household cleaners and 3.44 tons of used motor oil are discharged into city drains each month. And those figures do not reflect the large quantities of household hazardous waste "disposed" in backyards or in septic tanks.

Nearly all households generate hazardous wastes. Everyday personal care products like nail polish and remover, spot removers, moth balls, shoe polish and even some medicines produce potentially hazardous wastes when they are thrown out. Other examples include pest strips, pesticides, drain and oven cleaners, furniture polish and wax, paints, stains, wood preservatives, used motor oil and antifreeze.

Generally, a substance is considered hazardous if it can catch fire, react or explode when mixed with other substances, or is corrosive or toxic. This terminology on hazardous substances is more specifically defined as follows:

• Corrosive - a chemical, or its vapors, that can cause deterioration or 
    irreversible alteration in body tissues at the site of contact, and 
    deteriorate or wear away the surface of a material.
  
• Flammable - can be ignited under almost all temperature conditions.
  
• Irritant - causes soreness or inflammation of the skin, eyes, mucous 
  membranes or respiratory system. Household hazardous products 
  and their containers need to be properly disposed to minimize
  potential contamination of groundwater supplies. Kentucky's 
  groundwater serves as the drinking water resource for 85 percent of 
  the state's rural population.
  
• Toxic - may cause injury or death upon ingestion, absorption or inhalation.

To protect groundwater resources, the state enacted stringent design standards for all contained landfills operating after July 1, 1995. Designs include impermeable clay liners, leachate collection systems and groundwater monitoring systems. Since all operating landfills meet these stringent standards, household hazardous waste can be disposed with other household garbage. However, household hazardous waste products should be recycled or composted whenever possible.

This guide outlines several opportunities for households to prevent environmental and public health problems due to improper disposal of household hazardous products. Proper household hazardous waste management practices include: using nonhazardous alternative products; purchasing limited quantities of products containing hazardous substances; participating in waste exchange programs; recycling and composting; and preparing household hazardous waste products for landfilling.

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• Avoid buying products that contain toxic materials.
  
• Be alert to labels. Words such as "danger," "poison," "warning" and "caution" indicate that a product is harmful. "Nontoxic" typically means a product is safe for humans, but may not be safe for the environment. Other warning signals include "do not get in contact with eyes," "do not swallow," "avoid inhalation of vapors" and "use in well-ventilated area."
  
• Ask your local merchants about nontoxic alternatives to toxic household items and use them.
  
• Check with your local library, bookstore or the Kentucky Division of Waste Management, 200 Fair Oaks Lane, Frankfort, KY 40601 at 502-564-6716 for guidelines containing nontoxic household tips.
  
• For products containing toxic substances, purchase only the amount you can use at one time. If you have leftover materials, ask neighbors if they can use them or donate them to a non-profit group or theater group.
  
• Dispose of product containers properly, according to your community's policy on household hazardous waste disposal. Product labels may also include specific disposal instructions.
  
• Check with your local chamber of commerce or county/state environmental agency to see if your town sponsors periodic household hazardous waste collection days or has a household hazardous waste collection station. On collection days, qualified professionals collect hazardous wastes at a central location to ensure safe waste disposal. A household hazardous waste collection station is generally staffed by individuals trained in the handling, storage and disposal of these wastes. 
                       
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In the "old days" people had to deal with many of the same types of dirt, grease and stains found today. They would clean things with products found around the home, which were usually much less toxic than those used today. A basic difference between the cleaners of yesterday and those of today is a little "elbow grease." Safer substitutes may require more energy from the user, but using alternative home cleaners, disinfectants and polishes can drastically reduce the amount of hazardous products used in the home. Substitutes can also save money. For example, instead of buying air fresheners, open windows when possible to air things out. Use baking soda in odor-producing areas. Recipes using vinegar, bleach or baking soda serve to clean many things around the home. Local county extension agents should be contacted for the publication, Hazardous Household Substances: Alternatives That Are Relatively Free of Toxic Effects. This publication contains various recipes for cleaners that can be made from relatively toxic-free products.

When purchasing household products that contain hazardous substances, carefully consider how to use the products safely. Purchase only the amount needed for the task. When unused portions remain, consider recycling or reusing them when possible, and disposing in a way that will not pose a risk to you, your home or farmstead, or the environment. A few simple management principles apply in every situation:

• Do not use hazardous products within 150 feet of any well, spring, sinkhole or stream, even if all your spills and drips will be contained.
  
• Return excess product spills or drips to their intended use. For example, consider reusing filtered, waste antifreeze as water in other radiators; contain oil or grease drips and use for future lubrication needs; dispose of pesticide rinse water by spreading on labeled field sites at the proper application rate for the pesticide.
  
• Contain any unusable products, waste spills and drips for appropriate disposal.
  
• Do not pour leftover products on the ground or down the drain or toilet. This will most likely contaminate the groundwater as well as damage your septic system.

The remainder of this section provides information about the proper handling and disposal of household hazardous waste products found in most homes.

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Unused household hazardous waste products can be disposed in contained landfills. However, Kentucky law prohibits the disposal of liquids in landfills to prevent the free liquids from leaching into the groundwater. When disposing of household hazardous waste products at contained landfills, follow these recommendations:

• Paints, stains and solvent-based materials - (stripper, thinner, mineral spirits, cleaners) should be solidified by mixing with cat litter or sawdust, or by evaporating the liquid. Leftover solids can then be sent to a contained landfill or transfer station.

The following recommendations for the disposal of vehicle maintenance products should be used:

• Used motor oil - should be reused for lubrication or burned for heat in an approved residential space heater. Look for a label on your heater or check with the manufacturer to determine if it is approved to burn used motor oil. If it cannot be completely reused, take the leftover to a used oil collection site. Many service stations will now accept used motor oil for recycling. It is illegal to use waste oil to suppress dust or to kill weeds. Waste oil contains heavy metals and other engine pollutants that can contaminate soils and water resources.
  
• Used antifreeze - can be filtered and used to replace water in a radiator. Otherwise, locate a service station that will accept and properly dispose of or reuse it.
  
• Lead acid batteries - should be taken to the store where purchased. Battery retailers are required by law to accept used batteries.
  
• Old fuels- use whenever possible. For leftover quantities that have been stored for several months, dilute one part old fuel with five parts new fuel and use for engine protection.
  
• Drips and spills - working on cars, tractors, and other equipment should be confined to a paved area with absorbent materials such as cat litter or sawdust. The absorbent material can then be disposed at a contained landfill. Keep drips and spills off the soil. If the soil is contaminated, deliver it to a contained landfill and be sure to avoid future soil contamination. Maintenance on cars, tractors and other equipment should be done at least 150 feet from any well, spring, sinkhole or stream.

Wood Preservatives
Wood preservatives may be or contain pesticides. Unused portions should be treated with extreme care. Again, try to use all products purchased for the intended purpose, or give the unused product to someone who will use it for its intended purpose. If not, contact the store where the product was purchased to see if the retailer or the manufacturer will accept the remainder. If leftovers must be disposed, mix with cat litter and send to a contained landfill.

Pesticides
This category of potentially hazardous substances includes all types of pesticides and their containers, including those used for indoor plants and yard care.

All categories of pesticides should be handled as directed on the label to prevent health and environmental problems. Pay particular attention to pesticides classified as "restricted use." Pesticide labels and regulations describe the proper and legal use of regulated compounds. Older pesticides might not have current warning labels, and some may have even been banned since the time of purchase.

The only acceptable disposal practice for unused or unwanted (not banned) pesticides is to use the product according to current label directions. If a person has no further use for a pesticide, it should be given to someone who will use it accordingly. If that is not an option, the retailer where the pesticide was purchased should be contacted to see if he or the manufacturer will accept it.

When the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency cancels the registration of a pesticide, i.e., the pesticide is banned, it may provide a "buy-back" and disposal program for a period of time. The Kentucky Division of Pesticides, phone: 502-573-0282, should be contacted for more information on buy-back and disposal programs. If no program is available, the retailer where the pesticide was purchased should be contacted to see if he or the manufacturer will accept it. If that is not an option, properly store the pesticide until a buy-back or other banned pesticide collection service becomes available. The best way to avoid these problems is to purchase only the amount of pesticide needed for one growing season.

Pesticide waste includes empty containers as well as unused product. Pesticides come in minibulk tanks, plastic, metal, glass and paper containers. Minibulk tanks are returned to the place of purchase when application is completed. Some five-gallon plastic containers can be returned to the place of purchase for disposal.

Plastic pesticide containers should be immediately triple or pressure rinsed, punctured and recycled at a "rinse and return" program. If no "rinse and return" program is offered in the county, the retailer should be contacted to see if he accepts empty containers. Also, the county extension agent should be contacted to find out if a "rinse and return" program is scheduled for the future in or near the county. If no program is available, the triple or pressure rinsed, punctured containers should be disposed of in a contained landfill or transfer station.

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• Keep products in their original containers -- Over the years, some manufacturers have altered the ingredients. In the event of a poisoning, the product label can give a clue to the product's age and contents. Never place toxins in containers associated with food or drink. Kerosene and other petroleum products stored in soda bottles and in tin cans have resulted in many accidental poisonings.
  
• Use products in well-ventilated areas -- Avoid breathing the fumes. One open window is not considered adequate ventilation. Use an exhaust fan. Make sure the air is escaping outside and is not recirculating indoors. Take "fresh air" breaks. Work outdoor if possible.
  
• Avoid use of aerosols when possible -- Breathing the fine mist can cause it to settle deep in the lungs and be quickly absorbed in the bloodstream. Aerosol cans have an explosive quality and should never be placed in sunlight, near a stove, in a glove compartment or near an open flame.
  
• Keep products out of reach of children or pets -- Most accidents occur when a product is left unattended. Keep all toxins in locked cabinets or on high shelves. Do not store near food.
  
• Clean up after using toxins -- Carefully seal products when you are through using them. Some open products evaporate quickly and can pollute the air. Rags containing flammables (e.g., furniture stripper, paint remover, etc.) are fire hazards. Therefore, disposing of them in covered metal containers prevents oxygen from reaching the rags and igniting.
  
• Wear protective clothing -- This prevents chemicals from entering the bloodstream through skin absorption. It is best not to wear contact lenses when working around solvents as the fumes can become trapped between the lens and the eye, causing irritation or damage.
  
• Never mix products -- Some products contain toxic chemicals that create intense heat and/or toxic fumes when mixed with other products. A common example involves the mixing of chlorine bleach with ammonia. Together they emit toxic chloramine fumes. Never mix different brands of the same product. Each brand may have different ingredients.
  
• Choose products with child-resistant caps -- Following the introduction of child-resistant caps in 1972, the number of children's deaths involving aspirin products alone declined 43.5 percent the first year.
  
• Use only the recommended amount -- Twice as much does not mean twice as effective and can cause more harm than good.
  
• If pregnant, avoid toxic chemical exposure as much as possible -- Many chemicals in household products have not been tested for their effect on unborn children.
  
• Buy only what you need -- Some products require using only small amounts to achieve effectiveness. Buying the "economy size" may leave you with unwanted portions and a disposal problem.
  
• Beware of product antidotes -- Some products (especially older ones) may give first aid advice that is potentially harmful. Always call a medical professional or the Poison Control Center for advice.

2. Use Safer Substitutes

• All-purpose cleaner: In 1 quart warm or hot water, mix 1 teaspoon liquid soap, boric acid (borax), lemon juice and/or vinegar. Make stronger according to the job to be done.
  
• Drain cleaner: Pour boiling water down the drain once a week. Use a plunger or mechanical snake.
  
• Flea and tick powder: Put brewer's yeast or garlic in your pet's food; sprinkle fennel, rue, rosemary or eucalyptus seeds or leaves around animal sleeping areas.
  
• Fly paper: Boil together sugar, corn syrup and water. Spread on brown paper bag and hang.
  
• Furniture polish: Wipe a mixture of 1 teaspoon lemon oil in 1 pint mineral or vegetable oil.
  
• Glass cleaner: Mix 1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice in 1 quart water. Spray on and use newspapers to wipe dry.
  
• Laundry detergent: Use natural soap flakes. If the water is hard, add 1/4 cup vinegar during the first rinse to prevent the soap from leaving a film.
  
• Mothballs: Use cedar chips, lavender flowers, rosemary, mint or white peppercorns.
  
• Oven cleaner: Clean spills as soon as the oven cools using steel wool and baking soda; for tough stains, add salt (do not use this method in self-cleaning or continuous-clean ovens).
  
• Plant sprays: Wipe leaves with mild soap and water; rinse.
  Roach and ant repellent: Sprinkle powdered boric acid in cabinet edges, around baseboards and in cracks.
  
• Rug deodorizer and shampoo: Deodorize dry carpets by sprinkling liberally with baking soda. Wait at least 15 minutes and vacuum. Repeat if necessary. To clean rugs, vacuum first to remove dirt. Mix 1 quart white vinegar and 3 quarts boiling water. Apply to nap of rug with wet rag being careful not to saturate rug backing. Dry thoroughly, then vacuum.
  
• Silver polish: Boil 2 to 3 inches of water in a shallow pan with 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon baking soda and a sheet of aluminum foil. Totally submerge silver and boil for 2 to 3 more minutes. Wipe away tarnish. Repeat if necessary. Another alternative is to use nonabrasive toothpaste.
  
• Toilet bowl cleaner: Use a toilet brush and baking soda or vinegar.

3.  Environmentally Safe Stain Removal

• Bathtub/ sink stains: Scrub with a paste made of cream of tartar and hydrogen peroxide.
  
• Beer spills: Apply hydrogen peroxide to dried stains on white cotton. Sponge stains on colored fabrics with white vinegar.
  
• Blood stains: Douse spots with hydrogen peroxide (if fabric is bleachable) or diluted ammonia before rinsing in cool water. Avoid hot water; heat will set the bloodstain.
  
• Brass & copper tarnish: Mix together equal parts salt and flour, then add enough white vinegar to make a paste. Rub into stain. This may require more than one application.
  
• Chewing gum: In hair, work in vegetable oil or an oil-based cream (such as peanut butter) until gum is loosened. On fabric, rub area with ice until gum hardens and most can be removed. Place waxed paper over excess gum and iron lightly over paper.
  
• Coffee & tea stains: Wipe clean with a paste made of baking soda and water, or salt and white vinegar.
  
• Fresh fruit & vegetable stains: Stretch fabric tight and pour hot or boiling water slowly over the stain so that water runs through the fabric.
  Grass stains: Apply rubbing alcohol liberally to stained areas before laundering.
  
• Grease/ oil marks: Gently rub in talcum powder, cornmeal or cornstarch; let set, then brush or sponge powder away.
  
• Mildew: Scrub walls and floors with a brush dipped in borax and water. For books or papers, dust with talcum powder, cornmeal or cornstarch, let set for two days; then brush off.
  
• Mustard stains: Soak stained area with diluted ammonia before laundering.
  
• Perspiration stains: Rub stained areas with white vinegar before laundering. (Keep vinegar handy in a squirt bottle to saturate such stains before laundering.)
  
• Pet urine: Dampen area with equal parts of white vinegar and water and blot dry.
  
• Price stickers: Saturate with vegetable or baby oil before removing.
  
• Rust stains: Rub with lemon juice and salt, then rinse thoroughly with water.
  Scorch marks: Soak fabric in hydrogen peroxide, then rinse. Or alternate rubbing the area with a lemon slice, then wiping with a dampened sponge until stain disappears.
  
• Tarnish from eggs: Rub off with table salt.
  
• Vinyl that's dry: Sponge down with equal parts rubbing alcohol and water.
  Water spots on stainless steel: Rub area with a clean, soft cloth dampened with white vinegar.
  
• Wine spills: Liberally apply club soda to spill, then sponge up the soda and wine. 
  
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Many communities work with the county extension service to produce brochures and conduct workshops and presentations on proper management of household hazardous wastes. The brochures are distributed to the general public through school programs, community education programs, recycling centers and through retail outlets such as farm businesses.

Use of the local media can reach the largest audience. An environmental column in the newspaper is an excellent place to educate the public on household hazardous waste management. Public service announcements through local radio and cable channels are also effective.

The information provided should be easy to read and understand. Examples of alternative products should be given whenever possible. A telephone number should be published for assistance in proper methods for handling and disposing of household hazardous waste.

Public education programs about household hazardous waste management should deal with the following topics:

• Environmental and public health risks
• Proper waste disposal practices
• New, stringent standards for contained landfills
• Waste reduction and recycling
• Safety guidelines for storage and use
• Community household hazardous waste collection
• Toll-free information hotline and listing of agency contacts

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